They are also super durable, and while they deliver stability that you will not find elsewhere, you still need to sandbag them for safety. The diameter of the standard pin, and the boom is 5/8'.Ĭ-Stands are heavy. A second knuckle goes on the end of the boom and into it is locked a spigot, or nail, or baby pin (all pretty much the same thing) to which you clamp your strobe, or whatever else you are hanging off the thing. The boom arm attaches to the top of the centre post using what we call a knuckle. Often left out, but part of a C Stand Complete is a boom arm, available in three to six foot lengths. Some leg derivants put the legs in a sliding capability, perfect when you have to work on canted surfaces like a hillside. The feet will be of what is referred to as a turtle base design, forming a three-legged stance with legs of different heights and lengths to allow for placement and putting the longest leg in parallel with what is heavy on top. The centre post will be from two feet to six feet long compressed and while contain between 1 and 3 expansion posts. The best ones are made of steel and come in three distinct parts. The C Stand, sometimes referred to as a Century stand, allegedly after Twentieth Century Fox is widely accepted as the most stable lighting and light shaper style of stand. Those that will hold up and those that are going to fall over, dump your stuff, or bend into a pretzel. There are only two kinds of light stands. I still see it as folks trying to get going, end up buying questionable crap that is only going to fail them at the worst time.

Consequently, I saw an enormous of amount of soon to be twisted metal junk head out the doors. When I was working in a store, light stands were typically an afterthought, and considered as a non-budgetary item. When I talk to folks branching into studio style shooting and lighting, the last thing that anyone wants to talk about is a light stand.

Lightweight c stand